Amaranth—Food From the Aztecs

BY AWAKE! CORRESPONDENT IN MEXICO

ALEGRÍA, a nutritious candy whose Spanish name is translated “joy” or “happiness,” is commonly found in the colorful booths of Mexican food markets. It is made from the seeds of amaranth, a tropical plant with bright-red flowers. The candy is held together with unprocessed honey and is occasionally decorated with walnuts, pine nuts, and raisins. Amaranth seeds can also be ground into cereal or flour, which is used to make breads and cakes.

The Aztecs made tortillas and tamales out of amaranth flour. In addition, amaranth played a prominent part in their religious rites. The News of Mexico City said: “In one of their many rituals, the Aztecs would dip a piece of amaranth bread in the blood of one of their captured and [slain] enemies and eat it.” Another custom involved mixing ground amaranth seed with corn and honey and fashioning the concoction into small idols or deities. These idols were later eaten in a ritual that resembled the Catholic sacrament of Communion.

Both of these practices outraged the Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés and moved him to outlaw the cultivation and consumption of amaranth. Anyone who dared disobey his order was either killed or had the offending hand amputated. Thus, what was at that time one of the most important crops in Mexico almost disappeared.

However, amaranth managed to survive, and somehow it migrated from Central America to the Himalayas. Over the last century, it has become a staple food among the mountain tribes of China, India, Nepal, Pakistan, and Tibet.

Back in Mexico, researchers have recently been trying to isolate the seed’s protein to produce amaranth milk, a beverage similar in nutritional value to cow’s milk. Their goal is to use it to fortify foods and drinks for those who cannot afford to buy eggs, milk, fish, or red meat.

In spite of amaranth’s turbulent history, this versatile, nutritious food is still enjoyed by many people today.