Visiting Vietnam’s Bay of the Descending Dragon
ONE sultry morning in Hanoi, we boarded a bus and headed 100 miles [165 km] east to one of the most picturesque spots in Vietnam, the world-famous Ha Long Bay—or Bay of the Descending Dragon. We had often heard about the bay’s breathtaking splendor, and now, at last, we were going to see it for ourselves.
At noon our bus came to a stop at the edge of the bay. But we had not quite reached our destination. What makes Ha Long Bay famous is not only its emerald-green water but also the natural beauty of the 3,000 islands scattered over its 580 square miles [1,500 sq km]. Because each island is unique, we wanted to visit a few of them. So we boarded a boat, and before long we were involved in an unforgettable adventure.
We had sailed for about an hour when we came upon an idyllic bay surrounded by small islands. The boatmen dropped anchor. It was time for a refreshing swim in the cool jade-green waters! Our splashing soon attracted a group of curious children who paddled out to meet us in their small boats. The children and their families all live on the bay in houseboats, or junks.
You might have guessed that the inhabitants of Ha Long Bay are fishermen. But you may not have guessed that they also practice a vanishing art—sailmaking. Michael Buckley’s Moon Travel Handbook on Vietnam says: “Halong is one of the last places where junk sails are still handmade by families of sailmakers. Coarse cotton panels are sewn together with silk thread, with every seam sewn by hand. To discourage rot and mildew, the completed sail is dipped in a liquid that comes from a beetroot-like plant of the yam family. The sail is dipped and dried three or four times, a process that gives the sail its dark red-tan color.”
Are you wondering how Ha Long Bay got its name—Bay of the Descending Dragon? We didn’t spot any dragons on our trip! However, we did learn that according to legend, the islands of Ha Long Bay were created by a great dragon who lived in the mountains. The Lonely Planet Guidebook on Vietnam explains: “As [the dragon] ran towards the coast, its flailing tail gouged out valleys and crevasses; as it plunged into the sea, the areas dug up by the tail became filled with water, leaving only bits of high land visible.”
Of course, the real monsters are the wind and the water, which have molded these islands into various shapes and sizes. For example, if you use your imagination, you will see that Hon Ga Choi, Fighting Cock Islet, does look like two cocks fighting.
We got back to the dock at dusk, already looking forward to the next day’s exploration. After breakfast the following morning, we set out on a sailboat to take a closer look at some of the caves, or grottoes, in the area. The bay was covered by a mist, making everything appear mystically beautiful. We visited several caves. One of them is called Hang Dau Go—Grotto of the Wooden Stakes. It consists of three chambers connected by 90 steps. How did the cave get its name? The book The Lonely Planet Guidebook on Vietnam explains: “The cave derives its Vietnamese name from the third of the chambers, which is said to have been used during the 13th century to store the sharp bamboo stakes which [Vietnamese military hero] Tran Hung Dao planted in the bed of the Bach Dang River” to foil the invading Kublai Khan.
We climbed up to the cave and turned to contemplate the scene below. What we saw was truly spectacular. Quick, get the camera! With the cave’s stalactites in the foreground and our boat rocking gently in the turquoise-green bay in the background, we had the makings of a perfect photograph! Ha Long Bay truly is a photographer’s paradise and an artist’s dream.
Later in the day, we climbed aboard a small motorboat to get a close look at a large island. Suddenly, we were in complete darkness. It was as if the mountain had swallowed us whole! We were passing through a cave. Soon enough, though, we got to the opposite side. Amazingly, we found ourselves on a large lake. There were high walls of limestone on every side. We saw vegetation clinging to the walls. The boatmen cut the engine. The silence was punctuated only by the calls of birds. Memories of that tranquil moment will remain with us for a long time.
Before we knew it, the time had come to make the return trip to Hanoi. Our excursion had not been long enough. However, we did have many images to carry away with us—rugged island peaks, sailing junks and, especially, Ha Long Bay, which is but one example of the beauty of Vietnam.
We look forward to seeing other places of interest in this beautiful country. We thank the Creator, Jehovah God, for providing such variety and beauty in creation and for promising that one day the whole earth will be as unspoiled as Ha Long Bay. —Contributed.