A Trip Through Morocco’s Rif Mountains
By “Awake!” correspondent in Morocco
THE north coast of Morocco, from Tangier on the west to the seashore resort of Saïdia-du-Kiss on the east, fronts on the ancient Great Sea, the Mediterranean. The scenery here in this north African country is truly beautiful and varied—from deserts to high plateaus, from verdant valleys to towering snowcapped mountains.
Just south of the Mediterranean coast, at a distance varying up to thirty kilometers, is the highway from Al Hoceima to Tetouan. This road describes a long arc covering some 270 kilometers, even though these two towns are only about 190 kilometers apart. The difference is due to the hundreds of curves that must be negotiated in threading this mountainous region.
Along the route are peaks ranking among the highest in Morocco. On their slopes are forests of cedars. And all around in these mountains mineral wealth abounds. Three of us, when we last made this day-long trip, encountered some snow on the roadway, but had no difficulty in getting our little car over the hills and around the curves. Would you like to come along with us this time? I promise you many interesting things to see.
Interesting Sights
For instance, it is interesting to note this grove of olive trees stretching here to left and right. It produces many tons of delicious fruit and healthful oil. With little help, if any, from man, these trees keep on bearing fruit every other year for our benefit. Then there are these vineyards you can see along our winding route. One of the wines of this district is called after a tribe that once settled here—Beni Snassen. And the leaves of these vines are used in many lands to make a tasty dish. They are wrapped around a mixture of rice and lamb.
Look over to the right now. This mountain range takes us up high enough to get a glimpse of the Mediterranean and one of the finest beaches in Morocco. This beach stretches for miles toward the west. And you can just see Saïdia-du-Kiss down there.
See the irrigation canals passing under our route at this point? The natives call them séguia. Most of that water probably evaporated from the Mediterranean in the first place, then condensed as rain in the mountains. Before it gets back to the Great Sea it brings life and growth to parched areas, making them blossom and produce.
As we turn northward here toward Al Hoceima we will get quite a few curves along this route that dips and climbs sharply for all the world like a switchback railway. Soon, though, you will feel like holding on every second, for the number of curves will increase. We counted 1,025 curves between Targuist and Chaouen, and that is just about one-fourth of the trip.
Last time we stopped at this bend in the road to snap a picture of that little adobe house. Those windows with the wide stripe of blue around them attracted us. That stripe is supposed to protect the occupants from the evil spirits. We also tried to photograph some young women in their beautiful, brightly colored dresses and veils, but they refused to pose. Not that they are averse to having their picture taken. They just do not want to be photographed by strangers. Once they get to know you the whole family will gladly pose for you and then invite you to have some of their delicious mint-flavored tea and cakes. The language barrier is easily overcome. Many a cup we have enjoyed while communicating with gestures and smiles.
The Rif Mountains
From the top of this next ‘vertical’ curve we can view Al Hoceima perched on the rocks overlooking the sea. Here we turn west and then southwest to describe the huge arc that extends practically to Tangier. Our route straddles the summit here, following the heights for many kilometers before dropping down to sea level at Tetouan. One gets the impression of riding along the spinal column of some super dinosaur that had received the “coup de grace” and fallen, twisted in its last agony, its head at the Atlantic and its tail at the Mediterranean.
Notice how we are gaining altitude now. That means it will get cooler. The sun is warm, but in the shade of the long slopes it gets quite chilly. See the traces of snow over there on Mount Tidiguin? That peak is 2,452 meters (about 8,000 feet) above the sea. At Ketama just ahead, we pass through a cedar forest. Snow still covers much of the area, the trees standing like giant snowmen. Skiing is the big attraction around these parts.
Now as we swing around the curves to lower levels, after seeing some eighteen inches of snow in places, it seems odd to see fruit trees in blossom and young shepherds lying on the ground, comfortable in their coats or djellabas. How relaxing to watch those flocks as they peacefully graze!
But look over there on that hill! Can you see those objects moving slowly along the ridge? They look like trees, but they are really men bearing huge bundles of branches on their shoulders.
There at the foot of Mount Tisuka is the little city of Chaouen. If you are as tired and hungry as I am you must be ready to stop and stretch and hunt for some lunch in the souk or market. This part of the city is the ‘new city,’ while the old part, the medina, is on up the slope. As we ascend on foot, note the narrow cobblestone passages, walls coated with whitewash tinted a pale blue, and punctuated with archways every few paces. Look out! A donkey must be coming around the bend, for you can hear its rider call out “Balek, balek” (“Step aside, step aside”). His saddlebags or chouari will be loaded and it would not be pleasant to be struck by one of them.
But now it is getting late. We must be on our way. And as we leave the mountains the road seems to grow weary of rambling. With the passing of daylight there is little left to see but the dark form of a donkey, or a fruit tree white with blossoms leaps out of the darkness, appears to turn and wave as we pass, and then vanishes into the night. Journey’s end is just ahead.