The Seychelles—Man’s Lost Paradise?
By “Awake!” correspondent in Kenya
THE “Forgotten Islands,” the “Islands of Love” and the “original Garden of Eden.” These names have been applied to a little-known group of islands in the Indian Ocean. They are situated midway between the east coast of Africa and India’s southern shores. The Seychelles archipelago has been relatively unknown to the outside world since its discovery by the Portuguese in the days of Vasco da Gama. Only now are these islands coming out of isolation.
“The original Garden of Eden” is the term used by General Gordon of Khartoum fame in 1881, when he first visited the island of Praslin, the second largest of this group of eighty-six atolls. And no wonder! In the Seychelles, one finds white sand, tropical beaches fringed with swaying coconut palms, and a transparent sea that changes from pale green to indigo blue. These waters are filled with hundreds of species of tropical fish, as well as numerous varieties of shells. Offshore coral reefs, lush vegetation and a warm temperate climate make these islands seem all the more ‘Edenic.’
Unlike most tropical islands, the Seychelles are not subjected to cyclones and hurricanes, poisonous snakes or dangerous animals. Here you can find peace and quiet in an unbelievably beautiful setting. Lonely coves, isolated beaches, rare flowers and birds, sunbathing, snorkeling and fishing amidst a warm, friendly, hospitable people—this is life in the Seychelles.
The advent of the jet age and the government’s increasingly tourist-oriented attitude have opened these beautiful islands to the outside world. Although the flow of tourists has increased greatly in recent years, the Seychelles still reflect their long isolation, having deserted tropical beaches. On Mahé, the most accessible of these islands, over 80 percent of the total population of 60,000 is concentrated. Yet it also has lonely coves where lapping waves and a gentle breeze through the palms are the only sounds likely to breach the stillness.
From any of the majestic mountain peaks forming the spinal cord of Mahé, you can enjoy a tremendous panoramic view of the many beaches and adjacent islands. From atop Mount Seychellois, lying to the northwest, you can see one of the finest beaches anywhere in the world. This is Beau Vallon, a great crescent of white sand fringed with shady coconut palms and takamaka trees. In the distance, the expanse of blue sea is interrupted by the imposing shape of Silhouette, a thickly forested island culminating in a dramatic mountain peak. As the sun dips slowly below the horizon, a serene atmosphere of relaxation and peace prevails.
The Seychelles are of interest, not only to the ‘paradise seeker,’ but to the naturalist. Due to their isolation in the midst of the ocean, away from any continental land mass, these islands are the home of some of the rarest birds, mammals, fish and plant life on earth. Actually, some life here is found nowhere else in the world.
Vallée de Mai
As one walks through the lush tropical growth of Praslin’s Vallée de Mai, it is easy to picture what General Gordon had in mind when he called this place “the original Garden of Eden.” In the Vallée de Mai there are no less than eighty species of plants, many of them found only on these islands. Praslin, once called “the Isle of Palms,” is undisturbed by the advances of twentieth-century progress.
The Seychelles have six unique species of palms, and all six grow in and around the Vallée de Mai. The most famous of these is the coco-de-mer, or double coconut. Some have believed that this was “the tree of the knowledge of good and bad” mentioned in the Bible book of Genesis. (Gen. 2:16, 17) Of course, this view lacks any sound basis. Before the Seychelles were discovered, these strange, bilobed nuts were found washed ashore on the Maldive Islands. People thought the tree bearing these great nuts lived under the sea. So, it was called coco-de-mer, meaning “sea coconut,” according to French.
There are about 4,000 of these great palms growing in the Vallée de Mai. Towering above such vegetation as screw pines, jackfruit and latte palms, these huge trees at maturity reach a height of about 100 feet (30 meters) for the male and 80 feet (24 meters) for the female. It is estimated that a full century is required for the tree to reach maturity. After this, it can live for several hundred years. The nut itself takes three years to germinate and nearly seven to reach maturity. And these enormous double-coconuts can weigh up to 40 pounds (18 kilograms)!
Other Natural Attractions
Cousin Island’s lone human inhabitant is the warden. He cares for the island, which is the only internationally sponsored nature reserve in the Indian Ocean. Cousin Island is the breeding ground of many species of birds. It is the home of the notable brush warbler, not especially attractive, but very active and an enchanting singer. This bird is found nowhere else in the world. In this archipelago, one finds many rare birds, such as the Seychelles kestrel, white eye owl, Scops owl and the paradise flycatcher, until recently thought to be extinct. The better-known islands of Beacon, Bird, Cerf, La Digue, Moyenne and St. Anne all add their fine beaches, coral formations, rare fish and plant life to the beauty of the Seychelles.
Added to this, there is the unparalleled beauty of the underwater life. Corals, the delicate animals that appear like plants or even lifeless rocks, form great reefs surrounding these islands. They naturally provide a home for hundreds of animal and plant species.
One can spend hours in the sea snorkeling, as the lagoons and sheltered bays are a haven for the explorer. Indeed, there is dramatic underwater terrain where the delicate gardens of coral and a myriad of colorful fish are to be found, explored and enjoyed! In clear waters one can catch big game fish like marlin, sail or tuna. Here are found 800 species of fish and 120 varieties of shells. Truly, the natural beauty and splendor of these marvelous works of creation may well cause one to think of that first paradise home of man, the Garden of Eden.
Mahé, with its international airport built on land reclaimed from the sea, is the Seychelles’ link with the outside world. Upon arriving on Mahé, you see peaks rising about 3,000 feet (914 meters) from the sea. Their lower levels are covered with coconut plantations, while thick forests carpet higher elevations. Following the zigzag road from the airport, along the ocean on the northeast side of the island, one comes to Victoria, the capital. After a while, you get accustomed to these narrow roads snaking their way around the island, in and out of its many coves and bays and over the mountains to the opposite side. Besides private cars, there are the wide lorries used for public transportation.
Victoria is nestled snugly in the shadow of a three-peaked mountain known as Les Trois Frères. The capital currently is undergoing many changes. Victoria and Mahé are preparing to play host to the ever-increasing number of tourists visiting the islands. New hotels are being constructed. A large area recently was reclaimed from the sea to provide new port facilities and to allow for town expansion.
The Seychellois
The people of the Seychelles are like the islands themselves, of handsome appearance, unusually warm, friendly and hospitable. But, initially, they can be a bit shy with strangers, as Western life and styles are new to many. After a short time, however, you feel like old acquaintances.
Life is casual. Time and other factors that dominate elsewhere are not so important here. People simply enjoy life. Since these islands were uninhabited until the eighteenth century, there are no indigenous people of the Seychelles. The Seychellois today are a race of many origins. They are a mixture of African, European, Chinese, Indian and Malay. Among the Seychellois, therefore, there is a complete range of color and features. The majority of the population has descended from nineteenth-century slaves rescued from certain sailing ships. Many have French names due to France’s early influence in the islands. All speak the local language, Creole. Due to more recent British influence, English is the official language and is understood by a good number of Seychellois.
The people are spread out over the island of Mahé in little clusters of houses. Victoria is the only real population center. The typical house is of wooden construction with a thatched roof and is raised slightly on stilts. Walls may be of wood, pressboard, cardboard or even corrugated sheeting. The houses are normally situated on steep hills surrounded by breadfruit trees, coconut palms, cinnamon trees, and plants that produce bananas and vanilla.
Livestock lives close to the home and sometimes in the house. The staple diet of the people consists of rice, fish, even shark, heart of the palm tree, heart of the coconut, bamboo shoots, eggplant, breadfruit cakes and several varieties of vegetables. The Seychellois are very good cooks and love highly seasoned foods. A local popular drink, known as Toddy, is made from the fermented juice of the coconut tree’s flowering spikes.
Problems exist here, nonetheless, as they do elsewhere in the world. For example, the Seychellois will caution you against leaving your things on the beach, as they may be stolen. Also, due to the varied backgrounds of the people, there is a slight racial problem. Some consider themselves superior to others. The use of drugs is becoming an increasing problem with the young people. Despite the fact that a majority of the population claims to be associated with a number of Christendom’s major religious groups, a promiscuous way of life prevails. This naturally produces related problems. Also, to some extent, superstitious practices still exist. So, the Seychelles, like the rest of the world, must wait for the return of paradise, as promised in God’s Word.—Luke 23:43.
Paradise Restored
At present, these lovely islands still retain much of their natural beauty. Of course, with the great influx of tourists and the introduction of new life-styles, values change as different ways are adopted. But the government has pledged to prevent the corrupting of the natural beauty of these tropical islands.
The search for and the enjoyment of areas like the Seychelles indicate man’s innate desire to live in beautiful, peaceful surroundings. This is natural, since man once lived in paradise. Of course, the type of paradise enjoyed by the first man on earth is not found anywhere today. However, these beautiful islands give evidence that God can restore paradise, not only in the Seychelles, but earth wide.