Sri Lanka—Through the Eyes of a Tourist
By “Awake!” correspondent in West Germany
EARLY visitors gave melodious names to the tropical island that you are about to visit. The Persians called it the “Land of the Hyacinths.” To the Chinese, it was “Jewel Island,” and the Indians termed it “Pond of the Red Lotus Flower.” In 1972, however, the Sinhalese officially named their island Sri Lanka, and it has been called “the Resplendent Island.” But this isle has long been well known as Ceylon.
At first, all I knew about Ceylon, or Sri Lanka, was that world-famous tea came from there. But an invitation to visit “The Resplendent Island” caused me to contact the Ceylon Tourist Board in Colombo, the capital. Promptly, I received pamphlets telling of 2,000-year-old city ruins, artificial lakes in the jungle and pleasantly cool mountains. The biggest attraction? Why, the national and animal parks, playgrounds for elephants, leopards, sambar deer and exotic birds! A large number of reptiles, 109 different mammals and nearly 400 kinds of birds can be seen on this lush, green island. This includes migratory birds that come here from October to March and April.
Sri Lanka is 274 miles long and 142 miles wide (441 by 229 kilometers). Although it is at India’s southern tip only a few hundred kilometers north of the Equator, the average temperature on the coast varies between 78 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (about 26 and 30 degrees Celsius).
Sri Lanka has three climate zones. The northeastern part of this island is dry and hot. In the southwest, however, it is damp and hot, though a fresh sea breeze moderates the heat. The central highlands offer what might be called a “European” climate. Each of these three climatic zones has its own characteristic plant and animal life.
Like an Emerald
Now, suppose we view this verdant island through the eyes of a tourist. Upon approaching Sri Lanka by plane, the island emerges from the blue waters of the Indian Ocean like an emerald. Our host gives us a hearty welcome, and at once we feel at home. By car we are taken past a thatch-roofed fishing village. What a pleasure to pass shade palms and move along avenues lined with flowering trees! When we left Frankfurt, snow covered the roofs. Here beautiful orchids are blooming. True, there is “winter” here also, but the temperature even then is like that on a nice summer day in Germany.
As we travel to Wattala, a suburb of Colombo, we pass red double-decker buses. We gaze at huge working elephants and skinny humped cattle pulling oxcarts. Traffic still keeps to the left, a custom remaining from English colonial times.
Appreciation for God’s Kingdom
Our host has invited us to join him at a Bible study in the local Kingdom Hall of Jehovah’s Witnesses. At this house of worship we meet many friendly people. The women are dressed in long colorful saris and are as graceful as princesses. Despite the heat, the men wear a white shirt, tie and trousers.
After the meeting some of our spiritual brothers welcome us with a friendly Ayubowan, a Sinhalese greeting that means “I wish you long life.” I asked one father if I might take a picture of his family in front of the stage, which was beautifully decorated with orchids. With a friendly smile, he moved his head slightly from right to left, and I surmised that he did not wish to be photographed. However, Ranjit, the son of our host, explained: “When a Sinhalese moves his head that way, he means ‘Yes.’”
The sincere friendliness shown by these people helps us quickly to forget that we come from a country several thousand miles away. There is peace and harmony between the Sinhalese and Tamils at the meetings of Jehovah’s Witnesses. Their efforts to imitate Jehovah God’s splendid qualities, such as love, have had good effects in their daily life.—1 John 4:7, 8.
Interesting experiences are enjoyed by us while visiting people from door to door or hut to hut in our Bible preaching activity. For instance, a friendly Muslim tells me about Adam’s Peak. To many persons, it is the most sacred mountain on earth. Adherents of three different religions make pilgrimages to the peak of this 7,353-foot-high (2,241-meter-high) mountain. Why? Because of an indentation there. It is approximately 59 inches long and 36 inches wide (1.5 by 0.9 meters) and resembles a footprint. The Buddhists believe that this is a footprint of Buddha. According to the Hindus, it was made by Shiva, whereas the Muslims are of the opinion that it is Adam’s footprint, made after he was expelled from the paradise of Eden.
Incidentally, the pleasant Muslim we just met has manifested appreciation for the fact that Jehovah God has purposed to restore that lost paradise. There sickness, hunger and even death will be no more. This truly is good news, for although Sri Lanka’s landscape is paradisaic, some of its inhabitants are sick or sorrowful.
More and more thinking persons are showing true appreciation for the Creator’s promise. They are sharing with others the fine things that they have learned about his wonderful purpose. One young woman, chosen to represent Sri Lanka as champion swimmer of her class, gave up sports. Why? To spend much of her time aiding others to become better acquainted with the Bible.
A Trip to the Mountains
Now for a journey to the high country. We drive past yellow-green rice fields, the “weeping forests” and rubber plantations. Through fern-covered canyons, we go upward to the highlands. Terraces of small rice fields gently descend the slopes. The green hills and lively, crystal-clear waterfalls are a welcome sight.
Heights thickly planted with tea bushes seem to be covered with green velvet. Yearly, over 550 million pounds (250 million kilograms) of tea are harvested here.
Kandy—Charming City in the Mountains. In the highlands of the central province, 1,750 feet (533 meters) above sea level, lies Kandy. Surrounded by tropical forests and next to an artificial lake, this is indeed a charming city. Its landmark is the Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the Tooth. Under a special vault in an inner chamber of this temple rests what many hold to be a tooth of Buddha. The smell of incense and jasmine, offered to this relic, fills the room.
This temple also is the starting place for a spectacular procession called Perahera. During ten nights in July and August, temple dancers, elephants, trumpeters and torchbearers form a huge procession. At times more than eighty elephants participate. They are elaborately decorated with colorful blankets of silk and satin, silver bells and bright tassels.
Botanical Garden in Peradeniya. Approximately three miles (4.8 kilometers) outside Kandy is a botanical garden. Here we find a very impressive collection of tropical trees, splendid palm-lined avenues and exotic shrubs. Nearly all tropical plants can be found. here. Worth seeing, indeed, are the orchid house and the spice collection, where one finds such plants as nutmeg, clove, cinnamon and vanilla.
Ratnapura—City of Gems. The name “Resplendent Island” truly is appropriate for Sri Lanka in more than one way. Did you know that Ratnapura long has been the center of an industry in digging for gems?
The gems found in this vicinity include sapphires, rubies, tourmalines, amethysts, cat’s-eyes and the rare alexandrite. If you are not a gem specialist, however, be careful about a supposed bargain. More than one such souvenir has proved to be anything but what a person thought he had purchased. But the Tourist Board can provide a list of approved jewelers, from whom a person can buy a beautiful keepsake that is guaranteed to be a real gem.
Nuwara Eliya—Cool Resort in the Mountains. Our travels also take us to Nuwara Eliya. That Sinhalese name means “City of Light.” This resort lies nearly 6,250 feet (1,905 meters) above sea level and the mean temperature seldom rises above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). The English governor had his residence built here. Sir Samuel Baker, the famous explorer of the Nile, had architects and workmen come to this highland and build a village in typical English style. The houses and white garden fences are certain to remind one of the pretty towns in England’s lake district. Easily accessible from Nuwara Eliya is Mount Pidurutalagala, 8,291 feet (2,527 meters) above sea level. It is the island’s highest mountain.
Garden in the Highlands. Not far from Nuwara Eliya is Hakgala. The botanical garden here is one of the few places in the tropics where flowers imported from Europe can be grown. The fruitful soil, abundant rainfall and warm sun are just right for such flowers as narcissus, gladiolus, carnations, chrysanthemums and violets.
Incidentally, in the mountainous region are found such animals as the Ceylon leopard, porcupine, deer and the giant squirrel. Birds most likely to be seen in the highlands include the Ceylonese magpie, white-eye, gray-headed flycatcher and European robin.
Jungle City of Ruins. Even as the pyramids were important to the ancient Egyptians, so the city of Anuradhapura is significant to the Sinhalese. Moreover, it has long been a religious center for the Buddhists, just as Benares has been for the Hindus.
In the heart of the old city of Anuradhapura, which has many ancient ruins, stands the Sri Maha Bodhi tree. It is held to be a branch of the tree in India beneath which Buddha is said to have gained enlightenment. According to tradition this young tree was brought to Ceylon in the third century before the Common Era by the Indian Princess Sanghamitta. Today it is one of the most sacred places of Buddhism. Since 1966 the tree has been enclosed within a golden railing.
Irrigation Systems
Whereas about 200 inches (500 cm.) of rain falls annually in the mountains, only during three months of the year are there rains in the lowlands. The monsoon rains descend upon the land like a flood. Then for many months the dry season dominates.
For this reason, over two thousand years ago the Sinhalese tried to store the precious rainwater. The entire country is interwoven by a network of dams and canals. By means of an ingenious system, the wewas, or reservoirs, are connected with one another. Some of these dams are very high and a few miles long. As King Parakramabahu of Polonnaruwa urged: ‘Not even a little water coming from the rain must flow into the ocean without being made useful to man.’
The Ruhunu National Park
Some 175 miles (282 kilometers) from Colombo, in the southeastern part of the island, lies one of Sri Lanka’s most beautiful wildlife parks. The Ruhunu National Park is the home of elephants, wild buffaloes and peacocks. Yearly, thousands of visitors enjoy seeing the peaceful herds of red deer, spotted deer, elk and sambar deer. Flocks of heron, storks, flamingos and pelicans offer many interesting subjects for your camera.
We would like to get out of the car and stroke the animals. Those that have been in this enclosure for years seem tame. Without any trouble, we can approach to within 65 feet (20 meters) of an elephant herd. But getting out of the automobile would be dangerous. The animals are easily startled and then their actions are unpredictable. So, we wisely stay in the car.
The Vital Coconut Palm
Life on this tropical island can hardly be imagined without the versatile coconut palm, seen so often during our trip. From the trunk of this tree comes timber to build the village huts. The roofs are covered with palm leaves. But what of the coconut itself? The water of the immature coconut is a clean, refreshing drink, rich in mineral content. Furthermore, the ‘container’ does not pollute the surroundings when thrown away. The oil from the white meat is good for cooking and baking. Many use it for hair oil, which makes those black locks glisten.
Jaggery is a delectable fudge made from the sweet sap of the kitul, coconut and palmyra palm trees. The juice of the blossom stock of these trees is also the basic ingredient of the palm honey that tastes so delicious when mixed with sour buffalo-milk curd. Toddy, as this sap is called, quickly ferments and then is similar to a good beer. More often, though, it is distilled to make arrack, a beverage that is as strong as vodka and frequently is called ‘the poor man’s whiskey.’
Not only do the industrious inhabitants of this resplendent isle make sugar out of the palm; they also produce salt by ancient methods. Along the coast, we notice that ocean water is allowed to flow into shallow ponds. Then these are closed off by small dams. By means of solar heat and the wind, the water evaporates and salt crystals remain. This procedure is repeated until the layer of salt is thick enough to harvest.
For the visitor to Sri Lanka, paradise seems closer than ever before. This truly is an emerald island. Its sunny beaches, meadows, gray-green jungles, glittering artificial lakes, yellow-green rice fields, olive-green tea plantations and abundant wildlife all combine to make Sri Lanka a resplendent island.