“Lace of the Land”

By “Awake!” correspondent in Brazil

DO YOU see that woman sitting there, looking intently at something in front of her as her hands dart from side to side? What can she be doing? Shall we take a closer look?

The woman has some sort of pillow or cushion in front of her. But it is what is on top of the cushion that has her full attention. We ask her what she is doing. Her reply? “Making lace of the land.”

Because of the way in which it is made—on a pillow or a cushion—this product is also known as renda de almofada, or pillow lace. Some call it bobbin lace, hinting at the use of wooden sticks or bobbins in its production.

Why “Lace of the Land”?

Well, simply because it is made here in Brazil’s northeastern state of Ceará and is not brought in from other parts of the country or the world. It is a local product. This does not mean, however, that the same type of lace is unknown elsewhere. In fact, similar lace is produced in the Brazilian state of Santa Catarina and in other countries. But handmade “lace of the land” and the lacemaker are so typical of Ceará State that there is a larger-than-life statue of a lacemaker by the side of the new Bank of Brazil building in Fortaleza City.

How did the art of lacemaking get started here? It is believed that the wives of early Portuguese colonists introduced it. They may have learned the craft from the French. Since then, it has been handed down through the generations, mothers teaching their daughters, daughters teaching granddaughters, and so on. For centuries, this method has been so successful that the craft can be termed a home industry. More recently, however, many girls no longer want to learn lacemaking, as they prefer to pursue more lucrative occupations away from home. But let us watch a lacemaker in action.

How Lace Is Made

First, look at the indispensable tools—cushion, thread and bobbins. The cushion is elongated, about 60 centimeters (two feet) long and 30 centimeters (one foot) in diameter, and has a cylindrical shape. It is stuffed with palm straw and is covered with cloth.

Some lacemakers have the cushion on the floor, and they themselves sit on the floor to work. Others put the cushion on a low stool or a chair and work while sitting on a stool or a chair.

The thread generally used is cotton—fine for very fine lace, coarser for heavier lace. It can be any color, but white still predominates.

To start with, a design is drawn on a strip of stiff paper, or a piece of such paper may just have holes pricked into it. This pattern is pinned onto the cushion. Next, pins are put into the holes according to the design. In the case of a pattern drawn on the paper, the pins are put into points of the design. The pins are moved down on the paper as the work progresses.

By the way, you may have noticed that the pins are not ordinary sewing pins. Of course, these could be used, but they tend to rust and therefore are not satisfactory. Stiff plant spines, thistle thorns or fishbones are more suitable, as they serve the purpose and do not rust.

The thread that is worked around the pins is held on notched sticks of wood, or bobbins, about 15 centimeters (six inches) long, with balls on the end shaped to fit the hand of the lacemaker. Before starting to make a new piece of lace, the lacemaker winds the thread on two bobbins, half on one, half on the other. The number of bobbins she uses depends on the design and on the width of the lace being made; the bobbins may number half a dozen or many dozens. And the length of the particular piece of lace being made determines the amount of thread the woman winds on. Of course, she can splice on more thread if needed, doing so with an almost invisible lace knot.

The lacemaker’s skill and dexterity amaze us as she works swiftly, knowing just which bobbin to use next, when to twist it and how many twists to make with it before picking up the next one. Depending on the particular design or pattern, she works the bobbins to intertwine the threads so as to make dainty petals or a chain or a net effect.

To protect the lace and keep it clean, she usually covers it with a cloth. As the lace grows longer, it is neatly folded under this cloth on the side of the cushion away from the lacemaker. Even if the lace becomes several meters (yards) long, it is not allowed to fall to the floor as it increases in length. Only the part actually being worked on is left exposed.

Designs to Suit Every Taste and Purpose

Both fine and heavier lace are made. Also, there is great variety in the designs and the width. This can vary from less than a centimeter (under half an inch) to 10 centimeters (four inches) or more. And not only straight pieces are made. The lace can have a scalloped edge, or it may be curved. It can also be made in the form of a square or a yoke. Squares and yokes intended for use in blouses can be made either all in one piece or in two halves that are then joined in the middle—so delicately joined, in fact, that only an experienced eye can tell that the pieces were not made all in one. Truly, making “lace of the land” is an art.

Speaking of lace yokes, in shops and markets you can find lovely blouses trimmed with this beautiful lace. Some are lavishly decked with lace, whereas others have less. If you prefer, you can have a blouse made to order. Or maybe you would like a nightgown that is decorated with hand embroidery and delicate narrow strips of lace. Then there are beautiful tablecloths, doilies and bedspreads trimmed with lace or made entirely of lace. Whether you want something for yourself or are seeking a present for a friend, you will find an article to please you. It is easy to understand why this pretty lace is used so much locally and is in demand elsewhere, even outside Brazil.

Rather than buying a garment, you may wish to buy some of the lace to use in your home sewing. You can purchase it either from someone who makes it or from a retailer. Then, too, you can buy as many centimeters or meters as you wish of the design and width that suit your fancy. Whatever you decide to make, be it a blouse, a dress, a skirt or something else, you can be sure it will be most pleasing to the eye and will win you many compliments if you trim it with some beautiful handmade lace. And, if you ever stop over in Fortaleza City, come and see busy girls and women making the lovely “lace of the land.”