I Visit a Japanese Vineyard
By Awake! correspondent in Japan
A DECEMBER morning finds me riding my bicycle, bundled up in my warmest winter clothes against the biting cold. I’m on my way to the vineyard of Mr. Yoshihiro Sano in Yamanashi Valley. This is some 75 miles (120 km) west of Tokyo. The foothills and mountains still have a trace of their autumn red and gold; the more distant ones are covered with the first snow. And towering majestically above all else is snowcapped Mt. Fuji, rising 12,390 feet (3,776 m).
As I approach the farm I am greeted by the family dog and soon thereafter by Mr. Sano. His farm, like most farms in the area, is small. In fact, the average vineyard is only one and one third acres (.6 ha). He explains that before World War II, many farmers were impoverished due to the high taxes levied by the rich landowners. However, following the war, wealthy landowners were required to divide the land among the poor farmers. Thus many came to own the land they worked.
How Grapes Came to Japan
Reference books reveal that grapes came to China over the famous Silk Road from the area around the Caspian Sea about the year 120 B.C.E. Then as Japan opened its doors to Chinese influence, a Buddhist priest named Gyoki, brought grape seeds from China to Japan about the year 718 C.E.
It is also reported that another Buddhist priest, Amemiya Kageyu, in the year 1186 found some exceptionally large grapes growing wild in the area of Katsunuma, near Kofu, Yamanashi prefecture. Bringing them back to the temple compound, he produced grapes of unusual size and flavor. Cuttings from these vines were subsequently shared with the local farmers and must be included in Yamanashi’s grape-growing history.
How the Grapes Are Grown
“Could you tell me a little about how grapes are grown in this area?” I ask my host.
Mr. Sano’s eyes sparkle with enthusiasm at the question. As he starts to talk you can tell that he obviously enjoys his work.
“Yamanashi prefecture has all the necessary ingredients to make good grapes. The sandy, rocky soil around the foothills makes for good drainage. At 750 feet (229 m) above sea level, there are cool nights with contrastingly warm days. A light breeze and low humidity during the harvest keep the vines relatively dry and disease free.”
“I notice that the grapes are kept high off the ground,” I interrupt. “Why is that?”
“It has to do with the fact that Japan gets a lot of rain during the grape-growing season,” he explains, “causing the vines to grow quite rapidly. A grape vine can grow as much as 12 feet (4 m) in one season. If the vines were kept low to the ground—as is done in many grape-producing countries with less rain—all the nutrients would go into the vines, producing fatter vines but less healthy ones. The vines are also more disease resistant and the vineyards easier to work in.
“Another unusual feature of grape growing in this area is the hothouse. In the middle of winter many farmers will cover parts of their vineyards with plastic and bring in kerosene stoves to heat them up. This stimulates growth in the vines and produces an early crop, usually about May or June, as compared to July and August for the normal crop. This has its economic advantages and spreads the farmer’s work out over a longer period of time.
“Normally, however, in the winter the grapes are left to rest. In December we add fertilizers and compost. Then we do our pruning, thinning away about two thirds of the previous year’s growth. In March, as it starts to warm up some, we spray for insects and disease and fertilize again. In April the first sprouts start to appear. As the new vines grow they are thinned and the tendrils are attached to the trellis wires. In May, about two weeks before the tiny white, sweet-smelling flowers on the clusters appear, work on the seedless grapes begins.”
“Seedless?” My curiosity quickens.
“That’s right. Usually we use the Delaware grape for this. First we cut down the size of the clusters, and then they are individually dipped in a growth hormone called gibberellic acid. This is found naturally in plant life, and it causes unusual growth of the plant but prevents the growth of the seed, resulting in the seedless varieties of grapes. This dipping is repeated about one month later, and this time the hormone causes the grape to grow larger.
“By now the grape bunches are growing well and are ready to get their paper hats. Each bunch is individually capped with a paper or plastic covering that serves as a protection from pesticides, birds and disease. In June, additional light pruning is also done to prevent excessive plant growth that would take strength away from the grape clusters. The harvest season for most varieties starts in late July and August, continuing into September for others. The clusters are snipped from the vines, boxed and taken to market.”
How the Japanese Eat the Grapes
In Japan grapes are grown primarily to be eaten, not for wine making. Less than 10 percent of the more than 500 thousand tons of grapes produced in Japan is made into wine. Some grapes, like the Koshu variety, have fairly tough skins, and are eaten without the skins, but the seeds are swallowed whole. However, most other varieties, even those with tender skins, are commonly eaten without the skins or the seeds.
As I bow and say good-bye to my friend Mr. Sano, I feel I have come to know Japan’s grape-growing country a little better. And I have also grown in appreciation of the endless variety of good things, including the grape, that Jehovah has made for the blessing and benefit of man.—Genesis 2:9, 16; Leviticus 26:5.