Having Problems With Your Sewing Machine?
Are you thinking of buying your first sewing machine? If so, the following advice will interest you.
“OH, WHY won’t this sewing machine work now?” Tears of frustration welled up in Elsa’s eyes as she despairingly examined yet another puckered seam. “What can I be doing wrong?” Sewing with a machine was new to her and she was having a beginner’s problems.
Have you ever been in that situation? If you own a sewing machine, it is likely that your own experience has taught you to sympathize with Elsa’s predicament. Yet, as frustrating as some difficulties may be, it may not be necessary to buy a new machine or even do a major repair job. You can take care of many problems—even head off serious ones—right at home, with a resultant saving of time and money.
Does that prospect interest you? If so, it may encourage you to know that often only minimal mechanical ability is required to maintain and adjust your machine, and that most problems can usually be overcome by making minor adjustments. So if you have your sewing machine near, you may want to examine it as you continue reading this article to see just how relatively easy it is to keep it in good shape.
THREADING YOUR MACHINE
First, especially if you haven’t used your machine for a while, check the threading and the needle. Which way should your needle be set? If the needle plate is on the left side of your machine, the flat side of the needle goes toward the inside, or to your right, and you thread from left to right. If the needle plate is in the front, then the flat side of the needle goes to the rear, and you thread from front to rear. There are only a few machines that are exceptions to this rule.
Threading your machine can look difficult, but it is really simple. Start by putting the presser foot in the up position (the presser foot lever is on the left rear side of your machine). Advancing from your spool of thread, look for one or two thread guides on the left top cover. Then take the thread down to and around the tension or tension dial, making sure to catch the spring there; next, up to the thread take-up lever, through the hole in it, down through one or two more thread guides and finally through the needle. If the machine is threaded wrong, or if the needle is in backward, the thread will break or it will not form stitches.
Does your machine skip stitches? If so, try a new needle, as a bent needle will always cause it to skip. The type of fabric being sewn also plays a part. On most of the new polyesters and sheer fabrics you may want to try a special ball-point needle as it helps, in some cases, to eliminate skipping. Another trick is to sew the fabric with a sheet of thin tissue paper underneath to give it body, and then, of course, tear the paper off.
In Elsa’s case, the puckering mentioned in the introduction could have been caused by improper tension adjustment. A more common fault is that one of the threads remains straight on top or underneath the material. The solution? Usually just a simple adjustment of the tension regulator (dial). First, try changing the tension to the next number on the dial. If that does not solve it, try one number in the opposite direction. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to adjust the bobbin tension.
A rough guide to this adjustment is: When the bobbin case containing the bobbin is suspended from its thread, the weight will make the bobbin unwind if the tension is too loose. In this case the solution is to tighten the tension screw one eighth of a turn clockwise until its weight stops the unwinding. Then tighten the tension screw again one eighth of a turn. This makes a total adjustment of one quarter of a turn and should solve the problem.
CLEANING YOUR MACHINE
The few items that you will need for cleaning and repairing are easily obtainable. They are: (1) A small stiff brush. A toothbrush will do and is excellent for getting into small tight areas. (2) A small screwdriver. (Remember, it is always best to use a screwdriver with the same size tip as the slot in the screw head.) (3) A few cotton swabs. (4) A small lint-free rag. (5) A small strip of fine emery cloth (available at any hardware store). (6) Sewing-machine oil. (7) A small amount of kerosene or automotive carburetor cleaner. (8) Tweezers (to pull thread or lint from the machine).
Accumulated lint and dirt are probably the most common cause of difficulty in a home sewing machine. Lint builds up in the shuttle mechanism and the feed dog as small particles of thread and cloth become entrapped. Often this causes the fabric to feed improperly and results in puckering and skipping. To clean, remove the needle and the presser foot. Unscrew the needleplate setscrews and take off the needle plate. With your brush, clean out dust and lint clogged between the feed-dog teeth. Apply a couple of drops of oil where you see oil holes.
Cleaning of the shuttle assembly is next. First, remove the bobbin case and the bobbin. Next, remove the shuttle-race ring—usually held in place by two clasps—and the shuttle hook behind it. Use the brush and the tweezers to remove any visible lint. While you have the shuttle assembly apart, take time to examine the shuttle carefully for nicks or scratches. This is important because irregularities on the surface of the shuttle can catch the thread and cause it to break. How did they get there? They are often caused by pulling the material through faster than the machine feeds it. The added pressure on the sewing needle causes it to flex and strike the shuttle.
To check, run the tip of your fingernail over the area where the point of the shuttle is and then directly in front of the point and through the slot. It may be possible to clear up any irregularities found by lightly rubbing the shuttle with fine emery cloth. The alternative is to purchase a new shuttle, so there is little to be lost in trying this cheaper solution. Now simply put the shuttle assembly together again and apply a drop of oil to the shuttle-race area.
OILING YOUR MACHINE
Oiling is usually not too difficult. Many manufacturers provide sewing-machine oil and a lubrication guide with the machine when purchased. Manufacturers recommend that you lubricate your machine in proportion to its use: daily if used for several hours each day; weekly if used only for an hour or less each day. DO NOT OVEROIL. One or two drops is usually all that is needed. Use only sewing-machine oil. All-purpose, household or vegetable oils should not be used.
In some machines there are holes in the case at the top where oil can be applied. In others, the top cover of the machine has to be removed for lubrication. Usually two screws hold this cover on, though some machines will have only one. Unscrew them and remove the cover. Several oil holes will now be visible along the top. Apply a couple of drops of oil to each and replace the cover.
In the event that your machine is old and has a buildup of oil (which will turn into a yellowish, hard, varnishlike glaze), you can remove this with kerosene or automotive carburetor cleaner, using a swab or rag. Since the cleaning fluid is volatile, be sure to do this in a well-ventilated area. If your machine has nylon or plastic gears or parts, be careful not to get this solution on them as it will damage them.
While this article will not prepare you to become a sewing-machine technician, it may become a valuable future reference when problems arise, as well as indicate when it is time to call in a professional to do some repairs. And, as you become more conscious of maintaining your machine on a regular basis, you will be assured of a better-running machine and will extend its life of service. Most of all, a properly functioning machine will spare you the frustrations that so many have to endure. This will certainly add to your joy in turning out good work for the pleasure and comfort of yourself and others.—Contributed.
[Diagram/Picture on page 22]
(For fully formatted text, see publication.)
Thread guides
Thread take-up lever
Tension dial
Presser-foot lever
Presser foot
Feed dog
Bobbin case
Needle plate
Needle
Spool