The Unique Matterhorn
BY AWAKE! CORRESPONDENT IN SWITZERLAND
“THERE is only ONE Matterhorn in all the earth; only ONE mountain with such balanced proportions. A wonderful sight!” So said Guido Rey, Italian Alpinist.
Indeed, the Matterhorn is an extraordinary peak, one of the best-known mountains in the world. The photograph on these pages is probably not the first picture you have seen of this striking mountain.
The pyramidlike Matterhorn is situated on the border of Italy and Switzerland, six miles [10 km] southwest of the village of Zermatt, Switzerland, the town after which the peak was named. It reaches 14,692 feet [4,478 m] into the sky and has two peaks about 330 feet [100 m] apart.
Though it is part of the Central Alps, the Matterhorn stands alone, without immediate neighbors. This accounts for the splendid view of the mountain from all directions and makes it very photogenic.
Some have fittingly described the Matterhorn as being shaped like an obelisk. It exposes its four sides to the four cardinal points, each side distinctly separated by a crest.
The Matterhorn, in spite of its height, is not always covered with snow. In late spring its steep rocky walls in the upper part yield their mantle of snow and ice to the warmth of the sun. Lower down, glaciers to the east and northwest nestle against the mountain like a white girdle around its waist all year round.
Many an admirer has wondered how this unequaled mountain originated. No rubble piles around its foot can be seen as remains of the material from which it was sculptured. Any such rubble must have been washed away during the untold thousands of years of its existence. What powerful forces of nature must have contributed to this beautiful sight!
Early Settlements
The alpine valley that leads up to the foot of the Matterhorn was already inhabited at the time of the Roman Empire. History reports that in the year 100 B.C.E., the Roman general Marius crossed the Theodul Pass, east of the Matterhorn, at a height of 10,899 feet [3,322 m]. This mountain trail was also used during the Middle Ages for transporting goods from south to north.
In those times the inhabitants looked up to the Matterhorn with great respect, even with superstitious fear. Never would they try to climb the mountain, which they thought to be inhabited by the Devil himself! Who else would throw down ice and snow avalanches and rocks as big as houses?
Growing Interest in Natural Science
What those humble people shied away from later became very fashionable in England’s high society. Scientific interest began to grow, causing explorers to climb mountains for studies in such fields of knowledge as geology, topography, and botany.
In fact, in 1857 the Alpine Club was founded in London, and many a well-to-do Englishman traveled to France, Italy, or Switzerland to participate in the conquest of the Alps. The adventurers climbed peak after peak, including Mont Blanc. Though this mountain is the highest in Europe at 15,771 feet [4,807 m], it presents less difficulty to mountaineers than the Matterhorn.
Not all these efforts were purely in the name of natural science. Ambition crept in. Fame for being the first, the most courageous, the hardiest, was a big factor. At that time in England, the word “sport” meant nothing but mountaineering.
The summer of 1865 was one of the busiest in mountain climbing, especially with respect to the Matterhorn. This fascinating pyramid was one of the last peaks to remain unconquered. It was considered inaccessible, and local guides refused even to try. Their attitude was, ‘Any other peak—but not the Horn.’
However, the conquest of the Matterhorn was inevitable. In the early 1860’s, a number of alpine peaks were conquered. The climbers learned from experience and developed new techniques. At age 20, Edward Whymper from England was sent to Switzerland by a London editor to draw pictures of alpine sights for illustrating a book on the subject. Whymper was fascinated by the mountains, and mountain climbing became his passion. He conquered many a peak both in France and Switzerland and made several attempts to climb the Matterhorn. But the Horn resisted.
Matterhorn Conquered!
Finally, in July 1865 three different climbing parties happened to meet in Zermatt—all three set on climbing the Matterhorn. Pressed for time because of an Italian party that might get ahead of them, the three groups decided to combine into one cordée, or line of roped mountaineers. The group was made up of seven men—Edward Whymper and Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson and his young friend Hadow—all Englishmen—plus two Swiss and one French guide whom they succeeded in engaging.
Leaving Zermatt the morning of July 13, they unhurriedly approached the mountain from the east and found that the lower parts were relatively easy to climb. They pitched their tent at a height of about 11,000 feet [3,300 m] and leisurely enjoyed the rest of that sunny day.
The next morning, July 14, before daybreak, they started climbing. The rope was needed only occasionally. Some parts were more difficult than others, but often they found a way around the more serious obstacles. After two rest periods, they reached the most crucial part. The last 230 feet [70 m] consisted of a snowfield, and at 1:45 p.m., they reached the summit. The Matterhorn was conquered!
The summit did not show any trace of human visitors, so apparently they were the first. What a feeling! For about an hour, the victorious party enjoyed the breathtaking view in every direction, then they got ready to descend. The Italian mountaineers attempting the ascent on that same day remained far behind and turned back when they realized that they had lost the race.
A Very High Price
The victory of the climbers, however, was going to cost them a very high price. Reaching a difficult passage on the descent, they roped together, the most experienced guide taking the lead. Despite their caution, the youngest participant slipped and fell onto the man below, dragging with him the ones above. Alarmed by a scream, the last three men were able to hold onto some rocks. But the rope tore, and in a split second, the first four men disappeared down the precipice.
Benumbed, Edward Whymper and the two Swiss guides remained in a very critical position. They had to bivouac for the night and make their return to Zermatt the next day. Thus the glory of the day turned quickly into a disaster that marked the survivors for the rest of their lives.
Three of the four corpses were later retrieved from a glacier 4,000 feet [1,200 m] down from the site of the accident. The fourth, Lord Douglas, was never found.
These were not the last victims on the slopes of the Matterhorn. In spite of the fact that many ropes have been solidly fixed into the rock on the various routes up or across the rocky walls and narrow clefts and in spite of increased experience and the greatly improved equipment of the mountaineers, there have been about 600 deaths on this mountain alone.
Dangers
One thing that contributes greatly to the danger is the weather. It can change very quickly. A day may start out being beautiful, but before a person is aware of it, thick fog or heavy dark clouds can envelop the pyramid and a frightening storm can break out. This may be accompanied by fearsome lightnings and thunderbolts, along with a squall, and end up in heavy snowfall. And all of this on a beautiful summer day!
If climbers are overtaken by such a turn of events, they may have to pass the night in the open, perhaps on a small platform that barely allows them to stand. Temperatures can be well below the freezing point. Beneath is the abyss. Then one might wish he had greeted the Matterhorn only from afar!
Another danger is falling stones. Sometimes thoughtless climbers themselves cause stones to fall. In most cases, however, the causes are natural. Changes of temperature, ice and snow, pouring rain, and hot sun, as well as strong winds chasing around the Horn, all act on the rocks, causing big pieces to break loose. They sometimes remain in place for years, like a big pile of plates, but snow avalanches may finally cause them to move and fall.
Many climbers have marveled that this development has gone on for thousands of years and yet the mountain has kept its slender obelisk form, showing no signs of change in its shape. Compared, though, to its calculated 88.3 billion cubic feet [2.5 billion cu m] of rock, the falling stones are not significant enough to change its shape. Nevertheless, they do cause injury and loss of life.
Meanwhile, climbing the Matterhorn has become the thing to do for many. Some guides have been on its top hundreds of times. Also, many men and women repeat the feat, choosing a different route each time.
But there are also those giving it a try who come to recognize that either the circumstances are unfavorable or their own ability, physical condition, or training is insufficient. So they do not continue the climb, but they let reason triumph over the fame of having “made” the Matterhorn.
Nevertheless, whether you have seen this striking mountain in photographs or movies or have stood nearby in awe admiring its gorgeous hues at sunrise or sundown, you may have been reminded of the Great Sculptor. With deep respect for his handiwork, your heart may well have echoed the words at Psalm 104:24: “How many your works are, O Jehovah! All of them in wisdom you have made. The earth is full of your productions.”